Ode of Joy in the basement

BASMENTS

Basements exist beneath the surface. They are dark, frightening and full of spiders and cobwebs. In the basements we hide things. We keep things that we are afraid to express and prefer to repress.

On the flip side, basements brim with mystery. In the underground our senses open up to something beyond what we know or are able to explain. In basements we can awake our curiosity, engage our brains and have a lucky strike. 

So, do not be afraid to visit the basement of the Secession building in Vienna. 

You will have an astonishing adventure. 

THE EXHIBITION

In 1902 the Secession artists created an extraordinary “Beethoven extravaganza” exhibition. They dedicated it to the famous German composer, a long-time Viennese resident, on the 75th anniversary of his death. The exhibition was a massive success and scandalised the gossip-thirsty Vienna.

 

A statue of Beethoven occupied the middle of the main exhibition hall.

The sculpture was a labor of love for its author, 15 years in the making. He wanted to express the vulnerability of a  great talent. 

The statue presented a frail little man, sitting on a big throne, with a passionate expression and clinched fists. What did the public and critics see? “It was a man revealing himself. It appears as if  the composer emerged from a bath, put on a towel to protect his modesty and extended one foot as if awaiting a chiropodist” Really!

Around the sculpture 21 artists displayed their works. 

The contemporary Viennese composer Gustav Mahler made an adapted version of the prominent “Ode of Joy “ of Beethoven’s 9th Symphony.

 He positioned 6 trombonists on the stairs and arranged they played it at the exhibition opening. 

 

KLIMT’S FRIEZE

 

 

Gustav Klimt painted a Frieze as a tribute to the Beethoven’s 9th Symphony. He also generated the main scandal.

Frieze is a mural painted as a wide horizontal band on a wall close to  the ceiling. Klimt painted three walls. 

The first wall presents the theme “Longing for happiness”. Three naked figures plead to a knight in shining armour to ease their suffering. The knight gazes across to the middle wall. 

The middle mural is titled “The hostile powers”. 

The centre is occupied by a monkey-monster. with his three daughters Gorgons presenting lust, immorality and lack of control. 

Above them are his other three daughter called sickness, madness and death.

 A lone figure of a half-naked monk is painted on the right. 

On the last wall hope arrives as a figure of Poetry. A group of women representing Arts lead us to the “Choir of Angels from Paradise”. They sing  the “Ode of Joy”. Finally, a couple are embracing. 

The symbolism of the Frieze was explained to the public in a specially printed brochure. 

The official reaction was moral outrage. The Frieze was called “painted pornography” with “dangling dugs”and an “ecstatic tribute”.

 Klimt’s raw and intense painting was far too much for the refined taste of conservative Vienna.  

ODE OF JOY IN THE BASEMENT

Luckily, after closing the exhibition the Frieze stayed there for another year.

 Later it was cut into eight pieces, stored for 12 years in a furniture depot and changed ownership frequently. 

Eventually, the Austrian government acquired and restored the Frieze. 

In 1985 it build a special room with optimum climate conditions in the “Golden cabbage’s” basement and displayed the Frieze there.

 

In 2020, for the 250th birthday of Beethoven, The Wiener Simphoniker delivered a multimedia experience for the visitors to the Secession basement.

 Now we could look at the Klimt’s Frieze, listen  to Beethoven’s 9th Symphony and appreciate the story of the gifted suffering artist.

Music translates into a visual art.

Enjoyment is enhanced.

The Golden cabbage of Viennese Secession

Every city has at least one, initially rejected building which later turns into an iconic landmark. The controversial design slowly grows on the sceptical residents and their creative genius produces an affectionate nickname for it. The nickname is slightly embarrassing but soon becomes part of the urban folklore. 

So, while London has its Gherkin and Cheesegrater, NewYork – its Lipstick, Boston – the Sponge, Beijing – two Beehives, Vienna is proud of  its “Golden cabbage”. 

 

 

 

 

The “cabbage” is situated in the centre of the city, on the busy Karlsplatz. 

It is a white, unusually shaped building with a gold cupola. 

During its construction between 1897 and 1889 the shocked contemporaries produced hurtful names for it such as “crematorium” or  “Assyrian lavatory”

 

 

 

 

The building was meant to be a “temple of art”, a symbol of the progressive art movement.

Everyone knows the legendary story of the Parisian “La Boheme“ rising against the academic suppression during the Impressionism period. 

The story of the Viennese Secession appears neglected by the public and art historians. Is it  because Vienna did not have an artistic revolution? It was more like a dramatic separation (secession). 

The cultural and political elite accepted the new movement. The Emperor was the honourable guest of the first Secession exhibition. The City hall gave them a plot of land at the corner of the Karlsplatz to build a showcase Pavilion. 

 

The Secession began with informal meetings in two Viennese cafes. Between the beers and wines, some frustrated members of the Artistic Association decided to form a group and rent a venue  where they could display their paintings, cancelled by the establishment. 

The exhibitions proved to be very popular and amassed a small fortune. 

This success motivated the group to cut all ties  with the Artistic Association. 

In 1889 around 24 artists defected and in total 50 art people opened a new chapter in the capital’s creative history. The progressive movement put Austria back on the artistic map and has kept it there since.

 

 

The first president and wildly-accepted leader was Gustav Klimt ( the author of the famous “The Kiss”).

Klimt was at the peak of his fame, given the Emperor’s prize for his panel paintings on the Burgtheatre in Vienna. 

 

 

 

 

A young architect member of the group designed the Pavilion with the distinctive glided dome. The building appeared unusual for Viennese conservative taste, yet it was a concrete manifestation of the Secession philosophy. 

The group  included architects, painters, musicians, decorators and illustrators. Most of them believed that the creation of art is not for the sake of the art itself but to bring beauty to everyday ordinary life.  

They upheld the artistic freedom and the integration of the artistic genres. 

The motto of the movement could be seen above the front entrance of the  pavilion “To every age its art. To every art its freedom”. 

Three Gorgons (Medusa’s heads) represent the synthesis of three arts – Painting, Architecture and Sculpture. 

Inside, special partitions could be rearranged, so every exhibition could come with its own unique designs. 

 

The group split after eight years. The “Cabbage“continued functioning. During the Nazi regime the “Secession” was classified as a “decadence” and the building was destroyed. 

After WWII the Pavilion  was re-erected  and now functions as an independent cultural centre. It is open for visitors. 

The series “Autumn in Vienna” will continue with the post “What is in the basement?”

Autumn in VIENNA

 

The best season to visit Vienna, the capital of the European country Austria is undoubtedly autumn. Tourists are significantly less compared to the summer invasion or the Christmas market madness. Still, the size of the touristic crew does not determine the  preference.

The real reason comes  from the strange,“fall-from-grace” charm of Vienna. The past-glory nostalgia and the beauty in the face of coming death are  common themes for both Vienna and the autumn season. Both grow on you against all the odds. 

 

Vienna is the capital of Austria. AustrIA, Osterreich, not AustrELIA. People often confuse Austria with Australia. Lack of geographical knowledge could contribute to the mistake. Nevertheless, such an  error shows Austria’s irrelevance to the world. 

The state has approximately 84,000 square km (32,000 square mis) and a population around 9 million. In comparison,  the sixth-largest country in the world, Australia, stretches over nearly 8 million square km and its population is just under 28 million. 

 

 

 

It was not always this way for Austria. At the end of 19th century (1867-1914) Austria and Vienna lived their “Golden era” for almost 50 years.

In 1867 a new  Austro-Hungarian Empire came into existence. The monarchy was dual and constitutional. Austria and Hungary existed as two separate, yet equal states governed by a single monarch from the Habsburg dynasty called Franz Joseph I. 

Within the borders of the Empire were the Kingdom of Croatia-Slavonia, the modern day countries like the Czech Republic, Slovenia, some  parts of nowadays Poland, Ukraine, Romania, Italy and Montenegro. The Empire embraced multiculturalism. The population spoke at least 15 different languages. 

Vienna  gathered momentum and turn into a megapolis, with a modern road infrastructure,

solid administration and mandatory education.

 

 

 

More importantly for me and the world Vienna became the cultural hub of Europe.

I wander why we strive to immerse into French Impressionism, Post Impressionism, Expressionism, Surrealism, etc, and forget about the “Secession” movement in Vienna. 

This group gave the world unique creations of break-taking beauty. And yet, the Viennese “Secession” artists, architects, musicians and designers in Art Nouveau style remain relatively unknown. 

Is it the  language barrier or the irrelevance on large scale? 

 

Let’s go back to the story of falling from grace and transition into irrelevance. Some historians rudely describe Austria as a “failure”.

The Empire did not manage the multiculturalism  and the fight for national freedom well.

On 28th June 1914 the heir of the Austro-Hungarian throne Franz Ferdinand was assassinated by a Serbian nationalist. 

The Empire declared war on Serbia. Russia immediately mobilised to support Serbia. Germany declared war on Russia and France. Britain declared war on Germany after they invaded neutral Belgium. 

The local conflict escalated into a global war (1914-1918).

 

After WWI the Austro-Hungarian Empire no longer existed. Its “Golden era” was over and Austrians had to accept their fate of constantly explaining “ No, it is not Australia, it is Austria”.  

Every cloud has a silver lining. In our case the art and beauty are saved for  the world. The next post will be titled  “The Viennese Secession”.